Friday, June 29, 2012

Friday, June 29


The last day at QAIS—hard to believe.  The aides and I found reason to get tearful 3 times during the day!  We feel bonded; Sabrina said, “we are friends.”  They have been beyond generous and sweet.  I will  be eager to know if Sabrina has a child, if Mia finds a satisfying teaching position.  I hope we can find a meaningful way to stay in touch.

Julia wore her new dress and tiara to school; all the staff ohed and ahed at how beautiful she looked; they loved the connection to Alex.  I made her change out of it, though, when she began to watercolor with the 4 year olds. 

Princess dress at QAIS!

The watercoloring class
                            
We began the day with rain that had started at 10 pm and continued through the day.  No umbrella, but the vendor by the city bus stop pressed her umbrella on the princess (note the shoes).  The sea was fogged in and tumultuous most of the day.  We couldn’t see anything beyond the edge of the seawall; fitting, in some way, to ease our way out of Qingdao.  So our last time for walking the boardwalk happened without our knowing it; as too our last view of the lighthouse and the Kite Flying Park.  Perhaps it is for the best; we enjoyed it free of emotions.

Princess with the borrowed umbrella!
As a final goodbye, we were invited to dinner at a Korean barbeque restaurant—Lily, the head/owner of the school had hoped to be back from Beijing to host the gathering but alas she was unavailable.  Instead, we were accompanied by Sabrina, Mia and Ms. Gao, who runs the business end of things and was a big help to us several times.  She brought a gift from Lily, a set of two dishes for sauces that have Qingdao landmarks painted on them; we visited both these places last Saturday! A kind present to remind us of this adventure.

The Korean food was delicious! Different than last night’s Chinese feast; both were so good in their way.  This food was more vegetable oriented and had lighter sauces.  There were many small dishes—typical of Korean restaurants.  Lots of these were ‘salads’ with vinegary sauces that tasted quite good to me.  Curiously, all of these small dishes were ‘free’—one only pays for the meat to be barbequed or noodle  dishes or soup.  Note the huge fish soup pot—this was spectacular, with a number of Qingdao fish/shellfish in it.  The broth was so good!  Also, I had my own order of ‘bim bap’ which comes in a hot stone bowl with the ingredients layered in.  The diner stirs it quickly when it is placed before her, to cook the veggies and the raw egg, and mix the bottom layer of rice with all these ingredients.  It was quite good—some of the rice formed a crunchy layer.  But it was hot and made me sweat!  Good for winter.  The meat being cooked right at the table, on a grill, is dipped in one of several sauces, placed on a lettuce leaf, with slices of garlic and grilled mushroom and perhaps some rice (or anything from the many small dishes), and then wrapped and eaten in one bite (ideally!).  There were quail eggs, cabbage salad, other marinated mushrooms, iced ‘sour’ cucumbers (one drank the ice water later!), spicy kimchee, tiny tiny tiny fish with peppers (they were chewy but delicious), cold noodles with cold beef and cucumbers and pear slices—well, it went on  and on, and it was quite tasty. 

Our many, many, small dishes

Meat cooking in the center of the table

Shelves next to the table with tools and a dish cooking

Julia's shot of the group eating

The huge fish soup pot!

Mama's bowl of bim bap - very hot!

Julia ate almost none of it—had rice and the requisite Sprite.  I will give her credit for trying a few things; and for being a good sport for 1 ½ boring hours (no Alex tonight to be entertaining).  She took some of the photos and danced around the slowly filling restaurant, showing off her dress.  We talked a bit about the experience we’ve had; Ms. Gao was very kind in her compliments to us for what we ‘did’ here at QAIS.  She asked if Julia ‘likes’ China; what a challenging question!  She’s too little to have that kind of impression.  But she liked things that happened here, and people she met, and she now has a concrete identity for the word China—all worth the price of the ticket! 

We all agreed that we will be back; and they were kind to say that we have roots here, a place to come back, people who want to see us.  We all agreed that the next stage is to be more integrated into Chinese families—Ms. Gao said she will have us over, even though she speaks no English!  A generous offer.  Sabrina had already offered to have her mother cook her special homemade dumplings for us when we return.  It’s funny that we have moved to a new level in the last week or so—so many ways of explaining that.  Maybe it was safer to reach out to us when one wasn’t committing to months of relationship.  Who knows?  Giving a gift to Alex may have shifted our relationship; gift giving is a significant act in China.  I gifted the aides today, and possibly ‘inappropriately’—although I believe that they understood and appreciated my gesture.  Sometimes you have to follow your own customs, even when you can identify that they are in contradiction to the local customs! 

Julia conducted her own mini flowering of a relationship this week, with Jim in my class.  He caught on to and enjoyed playing BINGO and Go Fish (with cards I bought back when Maggie was 3!) and Julia was willing to play with him.  They ran and chased at recess, and she plotted to nap on the bed next to his today!  She then gifted him with a little toy she had bought yesterday; something that he was intrigued by.  So she made her last couple of days more interesting than they boded to be. 

A funny story from last week I forgot to tell:  On Saturday, as we headed out to the city bus, I could hear a traditional band playing in front of a shop at the community across the busy street.  I looked to see if it was an occasion of some sort—it was, certainly, the Dragon Boat Festival weekend, so maybe that was the explanation of the music.  On Sunday, as we again headed to the city bus, we found a traditional (the same?) band playing at the bottom of our hill.  I took some photos; they were playing traditional instruments and the music was interesting to listen to.  Then I was approached by a young man speaking a bit of English.  Through him, I was able to learn that this band had been hired by his group to attract a crowd so that they could market Korean style toilets, which are Western, and come with computerized bidets!!  It was so hilarious; not at all the romantic and cultural purpose that I assumed!  The toilets on display were pretty spiffy, too! 

The band

Some of the musicians up close

A fancy Korean toilet!
In some ways, this epitomizes our experience.  Fascinating, informing, and also quixotic and incongruous.  China presents many examples of having one foot in the early 20th century and the other in the early 21st century.  The ladies at dinner talked about the differences between contemporary China and the China of 30 years ago (before 2 of them were born).  China has, as we all know, been on an incredibly fast track; even 10 years ago, things were quite different.  These toilets are of interest because most families still have squat toilets in their homes.  

How does China move forward with grace and also inclusion—bringing all the people with them, not just a handful of higher--ups who are getting incredibly rich.  Both sets of dinner companions wanted to know how Americans see the average Chinese.  I think the answer to that is that we have yet to identify the average from among the huge mass.  There’s a bridge to be built there, so that we can see each other as something more than just ‘the other big power’—China is Maggie planning a good future for Alex by enrolling him in good schools and buying him an apartment; China is Mia who wants to be able to be ‘open’ in her connections with people, not slotted into a rigid social schema; China is Sabrina who does not want to emulate her mother’s parenting techniques; China is Mickey’s mother seeking advice on how to raise contemporary children in an international world; China is person after person telling me ‘thank you’ for Julia’s place in our family; China is various and nuanced in ways that we are so apt to ignore.  China is, I hope, real for Julia in all its variety, something she can own if and when she wants to.

We are heading home; ‘Djay jenn’ Qingdao, and ‘ni hao’ South Bend!

(Happy birthday Luca; can’t wait to see you!)




Thursday, June 28, 2012

Thursday, June 28

Julia woke up much better than yesterday. I was aware of how cheerful and chatty she was this morning, versus yesterday.  Thank goodness.   We had a pretty quiet day at school; 10 children and 5 adults, so a lot of hands on.  Some of the children are so eager for information; and some are interested only in ‘play.’  Now, for a couple this means a lot of art, and one could argue that that is also information! Or education, anyway.  


Working together in the classroom this morning
Ms. Gao exchanged all my Chinese money for me today; that felt a little weird—it’s really over!  Julia and I scootered on the boardwalk for ‘the last time’—we went the other way today, for the first time!  Julia was somewhat resistant—we didn’t go very far—but I told her I couldn’t live for the next 40 years thinking, ‘why didn’t I ever go right at the beach in Qingdao?’  The tide is going out; the beach looks inviting.  The rocks look a lot like places in Maine.  Out on these rocks we could see not one but three brides having bridal photos taken!  It was pretty windy and must have been wet out there; what a strange thing to do in one’s expensive dress!  The boardwalk was landscaped with some cool looking columns with interesting carvings on them.  There are a lot of open public spaces in Qingdao; they tend to be fairly empty.  I wonder if that is because Qingdao is more domestic than urban, compared with New York, of the same size.  People don’t congregate outside that much, and people aren’t desperate for space in the same way as they are in many big cities. 

Waves!

An interesting baby-carrying basket?

The tide looked way out

Maine-like rocks

A long line of these interesting, carved columns

One of the three brides we saw down on the rocks!

We were invited to dinner with Alex and his family, at a ‘good’ restaurant right here next to our community’s front gate; we have walked by it twice a day for 60 days.  Alex asked to see Julia one more time, after the gifting of the scooter; nice boy!

They had a chance to scooter together - here they check to be sure they're both ready

Down the hill!
So, Alex ‘insisted’ says his mother, on providing Julia with a present of his own choosing.  He picked the sweetest pink princess dress you can imagine!  He wrote a dear note, too.  See you again, in the United States.  I told his mother she should just send him to us for a visit.  Who knows?!

The dress unveiled!

Happy, sweet friends

The restaurant was wonderful; a very different approach to food than in America, but interesting.  Because of the ocean, Qingdao restaurants have a lot of fish; there were tanks of swimming fish in the lobby, dinner options all, including the lobsters and turtles.  Then, behind the tanks, models of the ingredients which go into each dish—so you can order it and also see the model for what’s in it.  Most things also had a glossy photo accompanying the food models.  Many, many options, including soup, meat, veggie food, dumplings, many kinds of fish—it was so funny to listen to Maggie, and Sabrina (who was invited with her husband, as well), talk about what to get with the waitress; they ordered about 12 different items!

The tiered tanks of soon-to-be dinners

Food models

More models

Some of the colorful pictures of different dishes
The first thing was “India Cake” –we got the sweet version.  We were treated to a live demonstration of the making of this paper thin cake, fried in lots of oil! And sprinkled with sugar before frying.  The cook began with a disc of dough, pounded it out on the rotating wheel, and then picked it up, swirled it over his head, slapped it onto the table top again, and back around.  This procedure was continued for about 8 times; each time, the disc got wider and wider.  Then it was sprinkled, folded, fried, and then chunked up into pieces.  Julia proclaimed it better than a fry stick because it was sugared!

The small, original circle of dough

Eager onlookers!

He swung the dough up so high!

Getting bigger

Finally full-sized and ready to be folded, fried, and sugared

India Bread!

After watching this demo, we went upstairs to the private dining room! Which seemed to be the method in this restaurant.  It was so charming, with windows looking out over what is our bus stop every morning, and a big round table with another turntable on it; soon it will be covered with those 12 dishes! 

Some of the many dishes, and Sabrina, Alex, and Julia in the background

More dishes,\

And more!
Neither of the husbands speaks much English at all.  But they were very clear that they wanted to be extending hospitality and friendliness to us.  One way this was done was by plying me with beer!  They explained the Chinese custom here:  if one wants to indicate that one is happy, one quaffs a whole (tiny) beer in concert with the other drinkers, having clinked glasses.  It was very festive.  Sabrina’s husband clearly felt weak on his English and yet he wanted to say something, and, as well, he wanted to be part of the ‘thank you.’  So we cheered a lot!  As he said, he will ‘speak with Qingdao words,’ the beer in this instance!  Also, they explained that the table seating had meaning.  I sat in the chair of the ‘most important guest’ while Alex’s dad sat in the chair of the host, next to my left, and next to him sat Sabrina’s husband in the seat of…’entertainer!’  He did a good job of being joyful and funny, in any language.  Maggie sat in the chair of designated driver!  And Alex was the sub-host; he and Julia cheered with their Sprite about 63 times!

You can somewhat see from the photos that we ate many kinds of foods, and they were all delicious (ok, Julia didn’t like anything she ate, but she has definitely fixed her attitude on the food not to be moved on that!  Smell has impacted her decision!)  We had a really good mushroom soup, and also a marinated mushroom dish that was particularly good.  There was a corn, mushroom and shrimp dish that was so good, very corn flavored, and the ladies drank corn drink –simply pureed corn, hot.  It actually tasted quite good, very full of corn flavor, although, not something I really want to drink!  There was a delicious beef dish with peppers and snow peas, and marinated peanuts, and a greens salad with peanuts, and dumpling sticks, with a delicious filling, and sweet and sour pork (for Julia, which she wouldn’t touch!), another beef dish, mushrooms and also greens in a good brown sauce, and a truly delicious crab/shrimp puff thing with crunchy bread coating that was not good for you but really tasty!

We had a wonderful time, even though some of us were antsy and some of us couldn’t talk to the others of us!  I ‘answered’ questions for a short time; Maggie’s husband teaches political science at the high school level, and has once visited the US (New York particularly).  He had very positive things to say about the citizens of the US, and wanted some insight into why it is that Americans seem to be ‘good and also happy.’  It was an interesting question and perspective.  They asked me about Americans’ view of ordinary Chinese.  So we had an interesting chat about these things (they stressed that they were asking just as among friends, which was also interesting); with the need for translation, it is a little hard to have substantive conversations.  And the social environment didn’t lend itself to real exploration, nor did the noisy children!  But I appreciated the desire to make the connection a bit deeper.   Sabrina’s husband offered his position, a dream, of world unity; we all laughed, as the beer talked, but still, I could note that in fact, overlooking national boundaries is part of an international adoption.  And I shared with them my new insight as to the necessity of including China as a central part of Julia’s world view; a gesture toward unity!

The kids finally got a last opportunity to scooter, in the growing dark, which meant that their sparking wheels could light up.  We took a few last hugging photos, and waved goodbye 23 times as we parted.  The kids have had fun together; not anything heavy or profound, but just real, continual fun.  That is a great gift; I am so grateful for that to have been part of Julia’s time here.

Some silly goodbyes...



And some sweet ones!

Silly scootering outside the restaurant

We will miss Alex!
As we walked home up the hill, it was bustling with groups of people socializing, riding vehicles, talking, walking dogs.  Americans, in their own homes, miss this social scene.  Just today, we saw morning tai chi, we saw afternoon roller bladders, and then we saw night time socializing.  We twice saw people we recognize, and we got a hearty Ni Hao from our veggie vendor.  We bought a donut (reminded Julia of Maine donuts) at 4:30 pm, and noted the ongoing renovation of a new store on the hill—the 3rd such opening that we’ve seen in these 60 days.  It all makes a good case for neighborhood shopping areas, rather than delegating it to larger mall shopping, which has to be reached by vehicle.




One last note:  this morning, as we walked to the bus stop, I spotted this chalk drawing.  Note that it is the ABCs.  How weird is that? In China, for children to chalk the English ABCs? 


Wednesday, June 27

After a night of tossing and turning, Julia awoke with some slight fever—oh great, start and end the adventure sick!  There is very little chance I’ll get her to the hospital again! So let’s hope that this is just a passing thing.  She had hysterics just letting the school nurse take her temperature! 

Bad timing, too, as we have this plan to take the class on a ‘field trip’ to the park.  Julia took a short nap in another room and woke up hungry—a good sign, I hope.  So, we proceeded with the trip (she would not have tolerated me leaving her there).  The photos show what a pretty day it was, and how much fun the kids had simply running and chasing.  They all had on cute hats.  The highlight of the morning was teaching them to play “Duck, Duck, Goose.”  They thought it hilarious! And so did a dozen adults passing through the park; they stopped to watch and laugh!  One group of 5 men stood so close to the circle I was worried the kids would run into them while chasing each other! 















On the other hand, the Chinese staff discouraged us from playing “Leap Frog” on the grassy areas, because the grass was posted “Please don’t trample the grass.”  I am somewhat fed up with some of the ‘rules for living’ that guide the life of citizens, especially children.  For instance, although  it has been warm and very humid, every afternoon when we put the children down for a nap, we close up the windows in that room so that the kids ‘don’t catch cold.’  There’s no point in trying to counter this belief!  Similarly, one aide told me today that “Chinese medicine” councils a new mother not go outside for the first month after giving birth, to prevent, primarily, wind from blowing on their skin and damaging their health.  While I believe that traditional medicine has a lot of good insights, it also has a lot of hookam!

We are on the hunt for a third suitcase; it appears that the gigantic suitcase we inherited from Ms. Alice is technically too large according to airline websites.  I think we can buy a suitcase at about 6 different prices, depending on where we go to make the purchase.  This is somewhat nerve racking!  I hate overpaying; I can be such a cheapskate!  We established a baseline today, at Jusco, where we can get a big suitcase, but not gigantic, for about $100.00.  While at Jusco, we made Julia’s last toy purchase; she read three books this week, and earned a nice sized prize.   I am hoping that she is getting the bug, by reading an entire book on her own, and pretty quickly too. 

We took in the boardwalk on our way to the store.  The waves were crashing in, even though the tide was ebbing.  The watchers were out, including these two in their fine clothes!  Women in Qingdao have a feminine edge (or more) to their dress; it’s not uncommon for grown women to wear bows in their hair, for instance, and they always have on dressy shoes; never sneakers or flip flops, etc.

Fancy dresses!

Julia was gunning for one last ride in a battery-operated car, but when we got there, she was seduced by the mechanical horse.  She is little enough to do these things, even though a bit ‘old’ for them.  She enticed a little guy riding another horse into a short race; she has a competitive streak!  She played Go Fish with Jim (age 4) and two aides today, and she simply had to win, even if she did it by taking advantage of Jim’s careless handling of his cards!





We strolled through the hill at prime hour; there were groups engaged in socialization all up and down.  This group of young kids in the background is being recruited by the Lego Club, I believe! While the bigger kids are milling around.   We put out our broken scooter, on our way to the SPAR to price suitcases (found one for $45.00); when we got back, half an hour later, it was gone!  Hope someone can make good use of it.  The late afternoon sky was clear and bright; the mountain was crystal clear against the sky.  I took this photo because it focuses right on the part that we climbed; looks impressive, doesn’t it?

Busy neighborhood, full of families

So many adults tending each child!

Our old scooter

Aren't we the mountaineers?

I’ve been packing during the last two evenings.  I brought some things I should have left behind; too many clothes, come to find out.  We have shopped in an idiosyncratic way—it’s weird, since everything is made in China.  We can buy it anywhere, although not always in China!  Julia is the perfect mark for the cheap plastic trinket that we stereotypically think of as Chinese.  And I have a weakness for anything with Chinese characters on it—doesn’t matter what it says (since I don’t know any way!), it looks like art to me. 

Julia has placed her Sunday breakfast order:  crepes with maple syrup and nutella.